“As we delve into our history, we discovered that our original building, 148 Lafayette Street, was originally a printing press, so that gave me this idea of paper and what it means. It takes you through the journey of paper and what you can do with this fabric,” Lafayette148 Creative Director Emily Smith said during a brand preview. spring collection.
Smith’s ideas translated exceptionally well into the season’s ready-to-wear. Structured pants had hard pleats in folded paper, as did softer, voluminous accordion-pleated skirts and dresses that were reminiscent of Isamu Noguchi’s signature origami and paper structures. A beige crinkled “brown paper bag” trench coat, a pleated leather ensemble and a perfectly oversized blue and white striped button-down offered a sophisticated approach to crinkle paper; a hand-crocheted artisan-knit jacket hints at torn shreds of paper with its long fringe, and a lightweight, sheer organza suit (including pants with built-in silk shorts) plays on the idea of paper sole (i.e. tissue paper). The designer’s palette was also derived from the material, with a mix of soft neutrals (white, manila, tan) and construction paper yellow, baby pink, blue and green.
No more WWD
“She’s the cool girl in town – not too precious or too flirtatious, there’s some truth to that. That downtown vibe with the uptown sophistication that happened in the 90s with the ’emergence of modern luxury,” Smith said of the collection’s lookbook images, taken on the streets of New York. The idea of SoHo in the ’90s was front and center not just in the images, but in the look subtle and modern minimalist of the collection.
“And of course the master of paper arts is Matisse, so we gave him a nod and actually tore some paper with this idea of construction paper for prints,” Smith said of the soft prints and paper-thin from the collection. , layered silk shift dresses. The result was timeless, clean and effortlessly modern.
Launch the gallery: Lafayette 148 RTW Spring 2023