It’s back to business as usual in Paris, with a busy schedule and many more evenings. This season sees Charles de Vilmorin’s debut in Rochas, the Balmain festival celebrating Olivier Rousteing’s 10th birthday and AZ Factory’s homage to Alber Elbaz alongside 40 other designers around the world. Below is an evolving guide to what’s happening at Paris Fashion Week Spring 2022.
Coperni brought a hemp farm to Paris Fashion Week
A real hemp farm surrounded the perimeter of the parade of Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant for Coperni (“no grass!” Jokes Vaillant). It was a much more low-key affair than the duo’s splashy fashion show last season, which they staged as an ode to the night. For spring, the contrast was palpable (we couldn’t escape the pleasant smell) because they wanted this collection to represent light as “a ballad in the sun”.
It was a tribute to nature, but also to daydreaming and escapism, a common theme designers explored this year, something that was evident in psychedelic prints, sequins, and quirky shapes. “We’re still playing around with this techno-chic idea for the Coperni girl, but we wanted to add a sunnier, beachier vibe,” Vaillant said backstage. Namely, the brand introduced a new bag called the Origami, the design of which is a nod to the iPhone’s photo app icon. (Steve Jobs’ daughter Eve made her podium debut here.)
Their signature Swipe bag, meanwhile, was the inspiration for Coperni’s first collaboration with Alan Crocetti, where earrings and rings took the form of classic style. More futuristic references included iridescent cowboy boots, deconstructed jackets with removable suspenders, and sci-fi references to 2000s references like low rise pants and crop tops.
Nina Ricci’s futuristic sirens for spring 2022
The ocean in all its glory was behind the spring 2022 release of Lisi Herrebrugh and Rushemy Botter for Nina Ricci, if you couldn’t tell right away from the terrycloth mules, snorkel heels, overlays of fishing nets, rubber bags and wetsuits that made up the collection. Instead of a live track, they filmed a video (called “The Sirens of Tomorrow”) where the setting is engulfed by walls of water and mannequins dive below. A color palette of reef shades like kelp green and turquoise brings the point home.
Dries van Noten’s visual fireworks for spring 2022
“An explosion of bold colors and emotions” essentially sums up the energy of Dries van Noten’s SS22 collection, which is full of saturated hues and decadent prints that seem accentuated against the backdrop of Rafael Pavarotti’s brooding portraits. Celebrations, joy and liberation were the themes of this season, with clothes just begging to be worn for the most explosive parties.
Summer Beach Vibes at Isabel Marant Spring 20222
It was good energy all around the Isabel Marant runway, with smiling models, a sunset color palette, ombre shades, summer sandals, loose overalls, printed jumpsuits and blouses. ottomans for a beach-ready wardrobe. The many TikTokers in the front row of course seemed enamored, no doubt drawn to its festival vibes. The brand recently appointed a new art director, although Marant remains in place, and more store openings are on the horizon.
Balmain had a model reunion for Olivier Rousteing’s 10th birthday
Olivier Rousteing joined Balmain exactly ten years ago, the first black man to run a French fashion house. In a huge Parisian arena last night, where thousands of guests came to see the designer’s Spring 2022 fashion show (it was open to the public as part of a two-day festival), a Beyoncé recording spoke of the accomplishment. and many more before the runway party began, with models like Precious Lee and Jordan Barrett (and TikTok star Wisdom Kaye) drawing the biggest cheers from the crowd. The final segment was a model reunion, with names like Naomi Campbell, Natalia Vodianova and French Carla Bruni sporting a revamped capsule of Balmain’s old looks. Oh, and Doja Cat played after that.
Courrèges takes over a forest for spring 2022
Adjustment ? A vast empty square field surrounded by woods, where models emerge from afar like a scene from a disturbing Stephen King film. But what came out was anything but spooky – it was festival material from the future: stylish ponchos, vinyl club wear, ribbed-knit flare pants and baseball caps made a collection that referred to many archival looks from the 60s and 70s for a new generation.
Charles de Vilmorin makes his first show for Rochas
At just 24 years old, Charles de Vilmorin was entrusted with the design direction of one of the oldest French fashion houses, Rochas. He caused a sensation last year when he was invited by the Chambre Syndicale to present his own collection (remotely) to the couture calendar. For his Rochas catwalk debut, he explored the brand’s reinterpretation of femininity and lightness with heavier touches like flame patterns and structural shapes. The abstract designs are reminiscent of the illustrations he does for his own brand, and the goofy statement boots are sure to spruce up a pop star’s feet in the weeks to come.
The future historical shock of Acne Studios
A hyper-futuristic attitude met historic pieces handcrafted by Acne Studios, all in contrasts: chiffon with leather; plaid with lingerie; reinforced hook and split corsets. “This is a juxtaposition of greatness with fierce energy,” the show’s notes read. The big rig craze has also shown no signs of slowing down – the brand is perhaps the most extreme version yet (although, thankfully, they’re flat and not arched). They came in cream, beige, and slimy green versions. You just know that Olivia Rodrigo’s stylist salivates in front of these pairs.
Dior references the Marc Bohan era of the 60s for spring 2022
Dior transformed its performance hall into a 60s nightclub with colorful grid blocks that took up the entire ensemble. The decade has also been a source of inspiration for Maria Grazia Chiuri, especially the (often overlooked) tenure of former creative director Marc Bohan. His 1961 “Slim Look” collection, the importance of which is sometimes compared to Christian Dior’s “New Look” in 1947, was referenced throughout the spring 2022 release, with mod silhouettes, trapeze mini-skirts. and a geometric take on Bohan’s bold hues (shades of raspberry, tangerine orange, and canary yellow have received the color blocking treatment).
Ottolinger gives new meaning to distress for spring 2022
Painted denim, warm pants, metallic suits, glam-fi maxi coats and lava pink cocktail dresses – these are just a few of the pieces that make up Ottolinger’s futuristic Spring 2022 collection. Their signature unstructured-sexy aesthetic was complemented by artist Lucie Stahl, whose work was applied to the brand’s mesh looks. Sinuous ribbed knits wrapped around the body, while cutouts and distressed fabric give the collection a worn and unfinished vibe.
Tinder collaborates with Koché for spring 2022
Courtesy of Koche
Koché’s Spring 2022 show included a surprise collaboration with Tinder: 8 pieces, including dresses, hoodies, t-shirts, caps and bandanas, were inspired by the brand’s reinterpretation of the Tinder brand. Parisian. A highlight of the capsule is a t-shirt dress fully embroidered with Tinder colors and embellished with ostrich feathers. It is available for purchase now on Koche.fr, with the profits from the collection being donated to the Casa93 fashion school of ModaFusion.
Kenneth Ize Spring 2022: fringes, rich colors and patterns
It was Kenneth Ize’s first show at Paris Fashion Week, held at the Palais de Tokyo. Former finalist for the LVMH prize who burst onto the scene in February 2020 with her interpretation of traditional Nigerian clothing and textiles (Naomi Campbell closed her show), Ize’s profile has only multiplied despite the pandemic that has again suspended the live shows. This season was arguably his most confident and confident outing to date thanks to graphic color combinations that caught the ooo and ah of even the most minimalist onlookers. The loose bangs, contrasting patterns, and sleek wrap-around garments were both elevated and playful. (A live saxophone performance by British artist cktrl provided the meditative soundtrack.) Kudos to Ize for continuing to put his country’s decadent weaving techniques on the map.
Film Marine Serre Spring 2022: Ostal 24
Hordes of avid fans scrambled to enter Marine Serre’s fashion presentation in the Marais district, where tables filled with cheese boards and snacks were scattered across a sprawling courtyard. After guests browsed through some of the SS22 looks on mannequins, everyone gathered to see Ostal 24, a 13-minute film showcasing Serre’s new collection in a series of daily life vignettes. A performance by musician LA Timpa wrapped things up. As for clothes? There were fewer moon monograms and more humble house fabrics reused in raised pants, dresses and shirts – Serre’s show ratings indicated that 45% of the materials were recycled and 45% reclaimed, making it made its most sustainable offering to date.
ALAÏA’s Parisian boutique now includes a café and a processing center
The first collection of Pieter Mulier may not be released until December, but visitors to the Alaïa boutique at 5 rue de Marignan will be able to take advantage of some new products available now. The four-story space, which will house new pieces of art and design, will also house a new cafe called Cafe da Rose located on the inner courtyard terrace serving Mediterranean cuisine with dishes from Portugal, Spain and of Italy. (Azzedine was famous for welcoming friends into her kitchen.) There’s also a new treatment room run by Martine de Richeville, known for her regeneration and remodeling techniques inspired by holistic Eastern perspectives.
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