Valentino Gets ‘Pretty in Pink’ in Daring Show in Paris


It was “La Vie en Rose” for Valentino, who headlined the Paris Fashion Week segment on Sunday with a bold but triumphant pink collection as VIP guests including Lewis Hamilton and Zendaya had to negotiate arrivals on a car-free day in the center of the capital.

Meanwhile, Balenciaga’s show invite – a cracked iPhone 6S – has raised eyebrows for being a waste.

Here are some highlights of the fall-winter 2022 ready-to-wear collections:

Pretty in pink (shocking)

An all-encompassing pink backdrop spanning Le Carreau du Temple in the Marais, bathed in peach sections by the Parisian spring sunshine.

It was a Valentino collection like no other – where the majority of the 81 exhaustive, often minimalist looks came in shocking pink.

It was certainly a bold move for designer Pierpaolo Piccioli, given the potential for ready-to-wear styles to appear repetitive. Still, it was skillfully managed. Scalloped shoulder detailing appeared on loose silhouettes with generous, generous proportions, bright pink above chunky ’70s platforms. A minimalist tulip-shaped skirt was surreal and angular, while a denim jacket sweet tuxedo was so oversized that its shoulders drooped from those of the model in the chic segments.

And just when pink was starting to feel endless, the Italian master couturier switched to a moody black palette – as if to say there’s a dark underbelly of all things soft – an effective contrast, demonstrating his control design.

Piccioli was trying to show that by removing color, or attention to color, eyes can be drawn only to form and silhouette.

It was a triumph.

Paris breathes

Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo has been hailed over the years for her efforts to reduce pollution in Paris, a European Union capital often listed among those with the worst air quality.

On Sunday, the first four arrondissements of the French capital were closed to car traffic from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. as part of a monthly initiative. This alleviated the energy-guzzling behavior of many fashion editors criss-crossing Paris several times a day in taxis or chauffeured transport.

Valentino customers had to present a special dispensation card to simply enter the area.

The art of inviting

The art of the chic invitation is still a staple of the luxury industry in Paris.

Houses compete to produce the most eye-catching, inventive and flamboyant show invitations, often delivered by an energy-guzzling courier to each guest’s home or business address with no regard for the ecology.

Small works of art sometimes give a hint of what the collection has in store; other times they’re just plain wacky.

An example of this was the invitation to Isabel Marant’s show: a shimmering silver box inside which was a musical instrument – an actual carved wooden recorder.

Loewe’s invitation was cheeky: a thick, thin, square meter piece of rubber hidden inside a small metallic cylinder setting the tone for Jonathan Anderson’s avant-garde display.

Saint Laurent’s invitation was pure luxury: a black leather wallet — initialized with the respective guest’s name — with YSL embossed in gold metal on the front.

While perhaps the most eccentric – and pointless – invitation ever seen was Balenciaga’s, which included a damaged iPhone 6S with a cracked screen and a laser-etched message detailing the invitation.

Atlein is having his morning coffee

Atlein, a French brand committed to sustainable design whose name is inspired by the Atlantic Ocean, focuses on the body, energy and movement.

In this parade, Antonin Tron has chosen to reinterpret the recycling of fashion. Sustainable design is a cornerstone for Tron, which has in the past taken looks from previous collections and recycled them. On Sunday, a model’s face was covered with a thick veil of recycled fabric.

Nespresso capsules were used to construct a sheath dress – in a memorable, Instagram-ready design feat.

Elsewhere, the sturdy material used for a veil has become an autumn raincoat, a jacket or a wrap skirt. They were folded, effortlessly, like origami.

There were also nods to trends – the silhouettes were slim, with black pleated leather pants and black ruched dresses. The collection was also infused with moments of sparkle in ocean blue, shocking pink, acid green and jewel flash silver.

The urban decadence of Givenchy

Matthew Williams, the former collaborator of Kanye West and Lady Gaga, pushed Givenchy even further in the street direction for fall – banishing any doubts about whether he would bring his streetwear aesthetic to the age-old fashion house. .

With black a big theme, a tight black cap shone above a black hoodie printed with “Givenchy” in different busy fonts for the Sunday night show.

A beige cropped T-shirt, meanwhile, came over a printed top and shiny cargo pants, and a black shirt opened up to reveal even more “Givenchy” logo prints that hide below. And therein lay the problem: Williams seemed to be trying to do too much to impress at the expense of silhouette, creating visual imbalances.

There were some beautiful unique looks. The drop hem ruffle dress series did well, especially in an indigo that was kept simple and oozing class.

Yet sometimes it just felt like Williams and the house aesthetic were at odds with each other.


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